THE A THROUGH Z GUIDE: Of things to eat in Wilmington, NC

This is my genesis. 

Before I ever wrote a single sentence about food for any Pulitzer Prize-winning publication, it all started here—a sliver of land sandwiched between the Cape Fear River and the Atlantic Ocean: Wilmington, North Carolina. 

Before any Shrimp Egg Foo Young in New York City’s Chinatown or Haitian spaghetti in Chattanooga, Tennessee or feijoada Myrtle beach, South Carolina or jollof rice in Charlotte, North Carolina. The origins of my appetite started in Wilmington, North Carolina. 

Back when “Turtle” was still cutting my hair at Barfield’s. Back when my father was buying Coogi sweaters from Fleishman’s and we’d pull up to Eddie Romanelli’s in his burgundy 280ZX with the T-Top. 

Back when my Aunt Pam was drinking Zima at cookouts in Dove Meadows. Back when Jungle Rapids still had the bumper boats. Back when tacos were $1 at Firebelly Lounge. 

Back when Gene Motley was covering the BB&T Jamboree at Legion Stadium. Back when Frank Sinatra crooned at the Azalea Festival Back when we’d risk everything for a fresh-out-the-grease fried chicken sandwich from Booty’s Soul Food after a night of drunken escapades at The Rhino Club or Fibber McGee’s. 

Wilmington is where I got my first taste of jerk chicken, pickled pig’s feet, champagne, liver pudding, calamari, legit Swiss fondue, moonshine, guacamole, tiramisu, matzo ball soup, freshly shucked oysters, ebi nigiri wrapped in nori, and Moro y Cristianos from the Cuban diner that was inside Starway Flea Market before it was demolished. 

Yeah, yeah, yeah—I know Dino DeLaurentiis sculpted the city into a motion picture industry darling, but Wilmington is more humble than “Hollywood”. More grit than glitz. More blue-collar than bourgeoise. This same attitude is baked into Wilmington's culinary bravado.

So, even when local chefs like Keith Rhodes, Dean Neff and Sunny Gerhart bask in the glow of James Beard award recognition, compared to a city like Asheville, Wilmington is as lowkey as Whiskey Creek at lowtide. 

Will a recipe for the North Carolina white shrimp bolognese of our very own Three10 restaurant on North Fourth ever grace the glossy pages of Bon Appetit Magazine? Maybe not. Will Manna ever bring a Bib Gourmand plaque from the Michelin Guide back to Princess Street? They should, but maybe not. Will the city ever get lucky enough to be considered for a Mr.Chow location? Not in this lifetime. (We don’t even seem to be worthy of a P.F. Chang Franchise.) 

It’s all good. 

I know very well how magnificent, deep-rooted and underrated the culture of eating out in Wilmington is, even if the rest of America doesn't.

A - Award Winning Chicken Wings

The Copper Penny | 109 Chestnut St. | copperpennync.com

We all know at least one restaurant who claims they have a dish that’s supposedly won some type of culinary award: “Aunt Joanne’s Award Winning Banana Pudding ” or something like that. Turns out, Copper Penny’s wing’s accolades are legit. 

I prefer my dozen extra crispy and tossed in Buffalo sauce. (And I’m a bleu cheese guy.) 

B - Baked Crab Dip

Elijah’s | 2 Ann St. | elijahs.com

I don’t know who’s the worst, the person that pronounces the “L” in “salmon” or the person who spends any amount of time in Wilmington and deprives themselves of the pleasures of hot crab dip. Seriously, it's like going to New Orleans and failing to fall into a bowl of gumbo.

C - Citrus Shrimp Taco

K38 | 5410 Oleander Dr. | k38bajagrill.com

Ah, if only every month was November, this letter would most definitely be the Churkeychanga from Flaming Amy’s. 

The bad news: That’s not how calendars work. 

The good news: There’s nothing wrong with getting washed away in the Baja-Mex brouhaha that is K-38, these tacos and a side of tobacco onions. 

Pro-top: Get the corn tortillas instead of the flour ones. 

D - Duck Confit

Caprice Bistro | 10 Market St. | capricebistro.com

If you’ve ever wanted to eat like a cognac-breathed, marinière- striped shirt-wearing,Gauloises cigarettes-smoking Parisian sauntering down the Rue Pigalle,this is your chance!  & It’s at the same restaurant that introduced me to escargot and “frites” purposely served with mayonnaise. 

E - Eastern Cioppino

Seabird | 1 S. Front St. | seabirdnc.com

I know the Rice-A–Roni jingle but to me,cioppino is truly the “San Francisco Treat.” Seabird’s riff is at once hearty and delicate. There’s a jumble of a little bit of everything with shells and scales: which as of right now are local shrimp, local clam, scallops and speckled trout all baptized in a rich, magically aromatic broth that seems like it could have medicinal powers. 

F - Fish Sandwich

1504 Resto-Bar | 2206 Carolina Beach Rd. | 1504restobar.com 

From Barclay Hills to Monkey Junction to Bayshore to Love Grove to Sunset Park to “The Bottom” : I’ve been hearing how “famous” Hardie “Webo” Ballard’s chicken and rice is and I'm not here to debate otherwise. I believe it. All I'm saying is: fried fish is my love language. 

G - Gabriel’s Combo Club

The Original Saltworks | 6301 Oleander Dr. | facebook.com/The-Original-Salt-Works

Imagine if the sitcom Seinfeld was set in Wilmington instead of New York City. Instead of Jerry and Elaine ordering the chicken salad on rye from Monk’s Cafe, they’d be here, enjoying this before a walk around “the loop” on Wrightsville Beach. 

(Castanza would definitely order the fried bologna and cheese sandwich)

H - Hummingbird Cake

The Basics | 319 N Front St. | thebasicsilm.com

Strangely enough, the hummingbird cake might be Jamaica’s greatest contribution to the cuisine of the American South. The Jamaican national bird is a Doctor Bird, which is a type of Hummingbird. My only slight gripe is they slather their spiced cake with buttercream instead of traditional cream cheese frosting. 

I - Imperial Pineapple Rice

Indochine | 3608 Oleander Dr, Ste B | indochineexpress.com

First and foremost: Rest In Peace Solange “Niki” Thompson, matriarch of hands down,the most enchanting dining atmosphere the city has ever witnessed. Anytime I eat here I put on the act of perusing the menu but, it’s purely theatrics. I already know what I want: Shrimp Goi Cuon to start. An ice cold Sigha beer to wet my whistle and Imperial Pineapple Rice. 

J - Jacob’s Run Hotdog

Louie’s Hot Dogs | 204 1/2 Princess St. | facebook.com/louieshotdogs 

The 100-percent all-beef hotdog. The gorgeous, squishy split top bun. The chili (no beans) creamy coleslaw and zig zag of yellow mustard. All these elements are like when all the Mighty Morphin’ Power Rangers join forces to become Dino Megazord. 

(Add diced white onions for a genuine North Carolina-style hotdog) 

K - Kolache

Brooklyn Cafe | 706 N. 4th St. | facebook.com/BrooklynCafeNC

The only other time I have seen these pastries hailing from Medieval Bohemia (modern day Czech Republic) was from behind the smudged display case of chaotic Buccee’s gas station in Florence, South Carolina. Now, described as “savory rebel in a case full of sweet-toothed showboats," the jalapeño and cheddar version is one of my favorite things to pair with a mimosa. 

L - Linguine Olivero | 522 S. 3rd St. | oliveroilm.com

Shellfish and linguine go together like Bill Murray in a Wes Anderson film. Like Barry Sanders donning a blue, silver and white Detroit Lions jersey. Like Michael Jackson on a Quincy Jones production. Like this handmade pasta paired with grilled shrimp, wild harvest mussels

and maybe someday, local spiny lobster.

M - Malai Tikka

Tandoori Bites | 1620 S. College Rd. | tandooribites.net

In my humble opinion, any city with a population of over 100,000 people that doesn’t have at least one “authentic” Indian restaurant is more than likely a miserable place to live. I couldn’t fathom having to actually travel to another jurisdiction for these “creamy” chunks of skewered chicken kissed by the flames of a traditional clay oven. Ideally, wrapped in roti. Lucky for us, Wilmington isn’t one of those cities. 

N - North Carolina Blue Crab Cake

Rx Chicken & Oysters | 421 Castle St. | rxwilmington.com 

My annual consumption of Old Bay is no less than five of those 6-ounce tin cans. I tell everybody who’ll listen that National Bohemian is my favorite domestic beer. I have even defended pit beef amongst the barbecue snobs. However, I will NEVER admit that there’s a better crab cake in Baltimore, Maryland than in Wilmington, North Carolina. 

O - Original Guinness & Beef Pie

The Harp | 1423 S. 3rd St. | harpwilmington.com

Admittedly I’m biased. For one: I’m a proud supporter of the Arsenal Football Club and The Harp happens to be the headquarters for local “Gooners.” For two: I’m always gung-ho about obscure dishes like Guinness and Beef Pie. (That said, I completely understand if you chose “Our Famous Pulled Chicken Nachos” from Front Street Brewery for this letter.)

P - Philly Cheesesteak J.Michael’s Philly Deli | 3501 Oleander Dr. or 609 Piner Rd. | phillydeli.com 

My cousin, Marvin, is the most diehard Philadelphia Eagles fan I know. Which means he frequents the great city of Philadelphia. Which means he’s chomped down on enough cheesesteak there to reach "aficionado" status—and he promises that J.Michael’s is neck to neck with Ishakbibbles. 

J.Micheal’s gets an extra point for the beautiful gesture of giving the option to add a slice of cheddar cheese to your apple pie.

Q - Quattro Formaggi Pizza

Tarantelli’s | 102 S. 2nd St. | tarantellis.com

I can’t think of a more sublime Wilmington food moment than enjoying a few post-midnight slices of Rio Rancho pizza from I love NY Pizza. However, this pie—with its rustic charm and covered in ricotta, pecorino romano, buffalo mozzarella and asiago cheese—is a close second. 

R - Rosemary & Sea Salt Sourdough Foccaccia Little Loaf Bakery & Schoolhouse | 3410 Wrightsville Ave. | littleloafbakeryilm.com

I love taking a moment to enjoy this take on a thousands-year-old bread amongst a crowd of folk who start the morning with a carajillo, can properly pronounce "guanciale," and know that an egg is the difference between a croque “monsieur” and “madame.” I'm shamelessly one of them. 

S - Sea Breeze Clam Fritter Voyce Bistro | 11 Market St. | voycebistro.com 

In her 1987 autobiography, Assata Shakur (rapper and actor Tupac’s godmother) reminisced about the golden years of her childhood spent in the vibrant Black community just north of Carolina Beach: Seabreeze and specifically the clam fritters (probably made by Mrs. Sadie Wade). This dish is a nod to that beautiful legacy. 

*Honorable mention : I’m starting a petition for Seaview Crab Company to keep the soft shell crab chalupa on their menu forever! 

T - Twice Cooked Pork Double Happiness | 4403 Wrightsville Ave or 7122 Market St. Suite 150 | chinesedoublehappiness.com

If Anthony Bourdain were still alive, we’d eventually, somehow, cross paths and end up right here on Wrightsville Avenue nursing brain battering hangovers from the night before at Katie’s Grill & Bar and bonding over our mutual infatuation with the jiggly wonders of pork belly. 

U - Udon Noodles Genki’s Sushi | 4724 New Centre Dr #5 | genkisanwilmington.com

From the orange color-coded chicken-flavored pack of Maruchan instant ramen to the $27 bowl of ramen decorated with ajitsuke tamago, crispy shrimp tempura, and those swirly pink and white fish cake slices—there is such a thing as ramen fatigue! Save yourself and try udon. 

V - Vanilla Flan Ceviche’s | 7210 Wrightsville Ave | wbceviche.com

After your tortilla chips dipped in salsa fresca. After the langoustine de coco ceviche. After the Corvina A La Plancha. You’ll realize that flan is a powerhouse amongst Latin American-derived desserts and that dulce de leche is not merely just a “sauce,” but rather a nectar of the gods. 

W - Western Omelet Goody Goody Omelet House | 3817 Market St. | goodygoodyhouse.com

I have never had a fluffier, puffier omelet than the one from here. It’s busting at the seams with diced tomatoes, ham, onions and bell peppers! Goody Goody also confirms my theory that anytime a restaurant enforces a “cash only” policy, the food is going to be phenomenal at the very least. 

X - Xiangling Cumin Lamb Dram Yard | 101 S. 2nd St. | dramyard.com

Finally! Lamb that aren’t “chops.” Just when people start whining and whimpering about Wilmington’s food scene not being diverse enough, here's a dish from the far reaches of Northwest China, that’s a farfetch from the duck sauce-covered Cantonese-style takeout fare that’s held our appetites hostage for so long. 

Y - Yiouvetsi Kippos Hellenic Cuisine | 1900 Eastwood Rd. | kiposwilmington.com

If it makes you feel better, I know a helluva lot about food and I had never heard of Yiouvetsi until Mayor Bill Saffo personally recommended it. ( A blatant nod to his Greek roots.) It’s short ribs cooked for what seems like forever and a day with a host of flavors that might come off as “exotic” to the un-Hellenic tongue. 

Z - Za’tar Garlic Knots Ponysaurus Brewing Co. | 214 Market St. | ponysaurusbrewing.com › ilm

I don’t know what’s more underrated, Vince Staples as a lyricist or za’tar as a spice blend. Most breweries skimp on anything you can’t drink, but somebody at Ponysaurus was genius enough to make the executive decision to treat these garlic knots like the Lebanese would treat  a bubbly wad of man'oushe. 

Your local pizzeria could never.